Houseplants

Yes, we can garden in winter in Maine! With houseplants, of course. Virtually anyone can grow houseplants, but it's best to have an understanding of the basics first. There are four parts to most plants: roots, stems, leaves and flowers. Roots anchor the plant and absorb water and minerals that nourish it. The stem transports the water and minerals to the leaves, buds and flowers. The leaf manufactures food through photosynthesis, absorbing light over its thin surface area. The flower is the sexual reproductive organ of the plant.

Over-watering houseplants is the major reason for failure. The roots can only absorb what the plant needs, so excess water displaces oxygen from the soil. This suffocates the roots and leads to rot. The plant droops, so most people think it needs even more water! Experienced indoor gardeners never water by the calendar. The amount of water plants need vary from plant to plant, room to room and even containers play a roll. Smaller containers of course would need less water than larger ones but the type of container matters, too. Clay containers are porous and will need water more frequently than a plant in a plastic pot. There are fancy meters that supposedly determine when a plant needs water, but sticking your finger down into the soil is the best way to see if it is wet or not! Water in the morning to allow any moisture in the air time to evaporate before evening. Foliage that remains wet and cool is more prone to disease. Always water thoroughly to ensure the roots are saturated. Bottom watering works best.

The medium in which a plant grows serves three main purposes. It acts as a support, keeping the plant from falling over, it stores water and nutrients, and it provides sufficient air circulation to keep the roots well oxygenated. Any medium that supplies those basics will give good results. I prefer soilless mixes, such as Pro Mix. There are many other name brands around.

Photosynthesis provides plants with the sugar and carbohydrates they need for energy and fertilizers provide the nutritive minerals they require for healthy growth and bloom. There are many to chose from but if you know what the three numbers stand for, you will know what is best for each plant.

The perentages listed on most fertilizers are for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in that order. Nitrogen primarily enriches the greenness of foliage and promotes stem growth. Phosphorus encourages flowering and root growth. Potassium contributes to stem strength and disease resistence. So fertilizer for flowering plants usually contain less nitrogen and more phosphorous and potassium. You can also find specialized fertilizers for say african violets and orchids. Some of these plants may need to be kept fertilized on a regular basis for blooming purposes.

There is one thing people make a mistake with and think, gee if my plant does so well with the recommended portion of plant food per gallon of water, think what doubling that will do! Well, it might kill your plant. Always go by the directions on the fertilizer package. Too much can burn the root of the plant.

So when it comes to houseplant care, whether it be watering or fertilizing, less is more.

Here is a list of 12 easy- to- grow house plants:

• Heart leafed philodendron (philodendron scandens oxycardium): This plant does best in indirect sunlight. Keep the soil barely moist at all times.


• English ivy (hedera helix): There are many varieties with many odd shapes of leaves. It does best with four or more hours of direct sunlight per day but will do fairly well in indirect sunlight. Keep soil barely moist.


• Pothos or Devil's ivy (scindapsus): This may be grown as a vine or, if pinched back, a table plant. Pothos does best in indirect sunlight and the soil should be moderately dry between waterings.


• Peperomia: There are many varieties to chose from, some clumping, or trailing and some that are low and perfect for a coffee table. They have thick leaves and the flower stalks look like mouse tails. They do best in indirect, but bright light. Let the soil become moderately dry between waterings.


• Wax begonia (semperflorens-cultorum): This will grow 6 - 14 inches tall and needs at least four hours of direct sunlight daily from November to March, then bright indirect sunlight the rest of the year. There are bushy plants with shiny, waxy, heart-shaped leaves. Given ample light, they bloom profusely in a variety of colors. Let it dry slightly between waterings.


• African Violet (saintpaulia): Thousands of varieties exist! They grow 4- 6 inches tall and do best in bright indirect sunlight. Keep barely moist. There are african voilet pots available that have a water reservoir that these plants love. Put your fertilizer directly into the water.


• India rubber tree (ficus): This is also sold as weeping fig. Althought it isn't the easiest of the list, if you find a spot it likes, don't move it! The can grow to the ceiling if not pruned and do best in indirect East sunlight. Keept the soil barely moist at all times.


• Jade plant (crassula): These will grow 18 - 20 inches tall and need four or more hours of direct sun daily. Let the soil become nearly dry between waterings. These plants will live for years root-bound, but you may re-pot any time.


• Dumb cane (dieffenbachia): One of the easiest! It may reach 4-5 feet tall but may be cut back. It does best in indirect sunlight. Let the soil become moderately dry between waterings. The leaves and stems of this plant are poisonous.


• Snake plant (sanseveria): Also known as mother-in-law's tongue. This is a very tough house plant. Thick, almost succulent leaves, it grows 18 - 30 inches tall. It may be grown in full sun in a North window or anywhere in between. Let the soil become moderately dry between waterings. In winter, water just enought to keep from shriveling.


• Chinese evergreen (aglaonema): This plant will grow in a dark corner of your living room where most other plants would die. But a north window is best. Keep the soil barely moist at all times.


• Dracena: Also called dragon tree. It comes in a great variety of shapes and styles. It likes indirect sunlight and the soil should be kept moist at all times. Don't let the pot stand in water.

Another great past-time of Maine gardeners in the winter is pouring over the many cataloges, books and wish-lists for next year's garden. There is one thing I have learned about gardeners in general. We're never satisfied! There is always a plant or variety that we can't wait to try next year!

Gardening in Maine

Gardening in Maine can be a challenge! Mainers call Spring "mud season" and sometimes we still have snow in April. And then there's the soil, clay mostly. With lots of rocks that seem to grow every year. Summer can be quite dry and hot. Does that surprise you? It wasn't always that way when I moved here in 1972. My husband is a native Mainer and this is where he wanted to live and I complied.


Don't get me wrong, I love Maine. People are friendly and genuinely warm, down to earth folks, who will give you the shirt off their back when asked. Life is more simple, no one is in a hurry. We can be on a mountain top or a beach on the Atlantic Ocean in less than an hour. Summer nights are silent and cool for sleeping. But of course there are those pesky black flies and ice storms to contend with. But you know, it's something you can get used to and makes for great conversation with out- of- state friends :-)


But back to the gardening...

I started gardening at a young age. My grandfather in CT had gardens and we learned to love asparagus and hate Japanese Beetles. I joined a Garden Club 10 years ago and learning from other gardeners was a great way to start. I actually thought I already knew what I was doing and learned otherwise. Needless to say, the gardens I have today have changed drastically from 10 years ago. When a garden club is federated, you have more learning opportunities through National Garden Clubs. One such course is Gardening Study, which is held here in Maine. There are four courses with a wide variety of classes from basic botany to identifying trees in winter. After the four courses you must refresh once a year to keep active. I have done that and hold a certificate as a Master Gardening Consultant. Next I will have to take a refresher every four years. I'm looking forward to it!

Four years ago I took the Master Gardener Course. I had always wanted to to that but wondered how on earth I could get in 40 hours of classroom and 40 hours of volunteerism. The classroom worked out well, held every week during evening hours, with one Saturday class. Then I found out there were many projects available other than having a plot to work on at the University of Maine's farm or weed someone elses plot. But many folks are happy to do just that. Some come up with their own projects in their own towns. The classes were very simliar to Gardening Study and we actually had many of the same instructors. But I found that no matter how many times I take a class on a subject, I learn something new. And then again there's the learning from others thing. Some of the best education comes during those 40 hours of volunteerism.

The first Master Gardener project I worked on was indoor gardening at an assisted living facilty. We faced many and varied obstacles! Mainly of the insect variety. You think greenhouses have it bad! But it was hugely successful and loved by everyone who visited, those that live there and the staff. But it was difficult to get the residents involved on a long term basis. Bi-weekly watering was our biggest problem. When left to staff, it generally was over-watering. After nearly 3 years we had to give it up.

While working on that project, I also had another weekly project in a new native plant arboretum. We planted 23 varieties of trees and shrubs with 3 or 5 plants in each grouping. The purpose of the arboretum is to see which native plants have potential to perform well in residential and business landscape settings. Another Master Gardener and I do weekly observations May through October and measure the plants Spring and Fall. The main obstacles we face are insects and sometimes disease and watering. Plants need at least an inch of water a week. So any new plantings were kept watered in the summer. I have muscles in my arms to prove it!

While the plants adapted, we did not interfere by removing or treating the bugs. And of course Master Gardeners are not licensed to use herbicides and encourage organic gardening. This year, however, our fourth year, we were finally able to prune and hand pick insects. What a difference that made in how the trees adjusted!


Where we live is a zone 5a. This allows us to grow a variety of wonderful perennials, trees and shrubs. One of my favorite varieties of long blooming perennials is the Coneflower (echinacea). This comes in the purple color everyone knows and loves but lately we've been treated to new colors and varieties. One has double flowers. But you have to wait a couple seasons to see them. In my garden just a week ago in late October, one of the yellow colored Coneflowers, "Sunrise", had a blossom still hanging in there. Amazing.

This has been a strange year, in that we had a very long and warm Fall. Where we live, we have not even had a frost as yet. The plants have no idea what is going on! We're usually thinking about planting spring blooming bulbs now before the ground freezes! I think we have plenty of time for that.

When you start out gardening, see how much sun or shade you have and select the right plants for the area. If you aren't certain, look on the tag of the plant or ask the professional you are buying from. There are plenty of books around and also internet searches. But I like to compare with other gardeners when I plant something I'm not familiar with. Once planted, mulch well and keep watered! Remember that they need an inch of water a week. You can figure out how long to run your water to accomplish this by setting a bucket next to your sprinker and see how long it takes to get an inch of water. I believe that plants prefer not having their leaves wet if you don't have well water. Especially in hot sunshine. But anyway, you shouldn't be watering in the heat of the day and especially when the sun is beating down hot. The best time to water is early morning. This cannot always be accomplished with work and possibly being away, so for that reason I recommend a soaker hose and a timer on your faucet.

In the Fall, I like to let my perennials die back naturally. It's not always visually appealing this time of year but it lets the plant do it's natural thing and the nutrition goes back to the plant. Some plants have decorative seed pods, which look nice in the landscape when it snows and they also offer food for birds and perhaps other wildlife. Around here, you don't mind seeing deer munching on hostas. Well, okay not too much anyway. It's just the way things are in the woods.


By the way, I have several tips for keeping deer away. One is to simply have the man of the house "mark territory" around whatever you don't want them eating. Yes, ladies you know what I'm referring to. I have never tried doing it myself being female, but if you don't have a man around, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try it yourself :-) Another tip is to shred a deodorant type soap and place this around your plant. It doesn't look great if you're using blue Coast soap, but really works. Human hair also works. If you can get your hairdresser to save it for you. But all of these need to be repeated if it rains. Try one of these tricks next Spring and see if they don't work for you!

But let's get back to Fall clean up.


Most perennial plants can be trimmed back to the ground after it gets cold, and as long as you really don't think there is anything there for the wildlife to take advantage of. It sure makes for easier Spring gardening if you do this now or next month. Annuals should be removed. Anything that has the Three D's (dead, diseased or damaged) can be pruned but save pruning of roses and trees until winter. Remember that some plants bloom on old wood, so you don't want to go pruning off next year's blossoms! A safe way to go is "prune after bloom." Lilacs, rhododendrums and forsythias are a good example.


Speaking of forsythias... ever wonder why you see so many blooming just a few feet up on the plant? These are generally not hardy varieties to the area and the snow creates a barrier that kept the buds warm. Thus, they bloom up to snow height. That's why it's important to know your zone and only plant what will grow in your zone. Growers are continually creating new plants that will be hardy to many zones.

If you haven't already, mulch your plants before winter. Especially new plants and that includes any trees, shrubs or perennials you've planted in late August. They also need to be kept watered weekly until the ground freezes. We generally don't have to worry, Mother Nature generally takes care of that this time of year.

I'm sure I'm not the only one that hasn't harvested everything, so pick those green tomatoes before frost and put them in a paper bag to ripen. Carrots and parsnips can linger until November, getting sweeter with exposure to a little frost. Parsley and even catnip may last another couple months if mulched thickly with a blanket of straw.

When you plant your spring blooming bulbs, don't forget they too need to be kept well watered. A tip I got from a gardening friend for keeping the deer and rodents from digging them up is to spray the ground often with Hot Pepper Wax Spray. Once the new shoots come up in the Spring, spray again to keep the deer from nibbling them.

In future posts, I'll talk about what gardeners in Maine do in winter months and I'll clue you in on a garden club project I'm working on with invasive plants.